Shopping in France is like shopping anywhere in Europe. Yet there are a few things that can surprise first-time visitors.
So, whether you’re curious or gathering essential travel info, let’s take a look at what you can expect when shopping in France. Especially anything which might be done differently back home.
What might surprise first-time shoppers in France?
Shops sell everything you’ll ever look for, and you will be treated as a valued customer, despite the occasional unflattering report from frustrated tourists.
But if you are going shopping in France for the first time, there are several things to consider so you don’t return home empty-handed.
Opening hours
An entire book could be written on the opaque and often unique rules governing opening hours in French shops. Nobody would buy it, but it would make a hefty doorstop.
Despite the myriad written and unwritten rules, there are some (near) universal rules that you can expect when shopping in France.
Firstly, outside tourist areas, shopping in France is limited on Sundays or public holidays, when operating hours are restricted by law. Nobody seems bothered. Sunday is widely valued as a day of leisure and lengthy family dinners in France, so few want to work or shop.
A growing number of supermarkets, DIY, and gardening stores, are open on Sunday mornings. But don’t be surprised if most shops, including the local supermarket, is closed. Except in the run-up to Christmas when stores might open all weekend.
Many small vendors like boulangeries (bakeries) will close for at least one day per week. Often Mondays. You may also find independent retailers operating unconventional opening hours during weekends.
Partially living up to the stereotype, lunch breaks are taken seriously in France. While most office workers won’t enjoy an extended lunch, small stores will typically close for 2-3 hours at lunch and stay open in the early evening. Chain stores usually operate la journée continue, which means they stay open throughout the day.
Night owls will also be disappointed when shopping in France. Most retailers shut their doors between 7-9pm.
Early risers should not expect anything other than the local boulangerie to open before 9 am.
Of course, there are exceptions everywhere, particularly in tourist hotspots and in the South of France, where the Mediterranean climate suits later opening hours.
Pharmacies and other regulated retailers
Certain products in France are sold exclusively through regulated businesses, notably medicines, tobacco, and gambling products. Alcohol gets a pass in wine-loving France and is sold everywhere, from supermarkets to vineyards.
Although you cannot even pick up a packet of painkillers outside la pharmacie, you rarely have to look far to find one. Just look for a big green illuminated cross outside the door, which can even be found in small villages.
French pharmacies are well-stocked places where you can obtain professional advice. Queues often gather as elderly regulars discuss their ailments. They are very much part of the community.
But watch the opening hours, as French pharmacies are also closed on Sundays, public holidays, and evenings. If you need medicine urgently, check the nearest pharmacy window or online to get details of the emergency pharmacy that is always available — the pharmacie de garde.
In France, tobacco is only sold through a tabac (tobacconist), typically a bar tabac or a tabac journaux (newspaper vendor). They are usually the place to make a sports bet or buy lottery tickets. A bar tabac will commonly have a separate serving section away from the bar area for purchasing tobacco products.
Supermarket shopping in France
Now we’ve got the need-to-know stuff out of the way, it’s time to look at the cultural oddities you might encounter when shopping in France. The kind of things that makes travelling the country so memorable.
If you picture France as a land of vibrant kitchens stocked with fresh, locally farmed, seasonal produce, you would be half right. Good food is highly prized in France, but the reality is most French people buy their groceries at supermarkets, like everybody else.
There are over a dozen big supermarket chains in France, from local mini-marts to giant, we-sell-everything hypermarkets (hypermarché). Prices are competitive and fresh food displays are colourful and abundant, making a trip to a French supermarket an illuminating insight into French life.
If you get homesick, there is often an eccentrically stocked international food aisle. This can be an eye-opening revelation of what your fellow citizens miss when travelling or a puzzling statement about how your national foods are perceived in France. Even this long-term resident is unsure.
Although the quality in supermarkets is generally high, French foodies seek out top-tier chains like Monoprix and Grand Frais where the emphasis is on exceptional quality (for a price). Picard, a frozen food retailer, is also known for its higher quality standards and for introducing international flavours to France.
Independent food sellers in France
I said supermarkets are only half the story when shopping in France because small, artisan retailers continue to prosper in France.
Colourful street markets are found in every town and even many villages. Don’t expect to save money — markets in France are where you go to find fresh, seasonal, often local produce. Quality matters more than price. You can get a fuller flavour of street markets in France from our previous ‘Street Markets In France’ post.
It’s not just markets that thrive in spite of rapacious supermarkets. You can still find several traditional types of food shops in towns and villages that survive by delivering a service, choice, and, above all, a quality that is rarely found in faceless supermarkets.
The undisputed queen of them all is the local boulangerie (bakery), usually with an inclusive pâtisserie (pastry shop). No cliché, the French love buying super-fresh bread. Put a baguette under your arm and you may pass for a local (just leave the beret at home).
Boulangeries are found everywhere. The quality usually ranges from good to extraordinaire and, if you enjoy food shopping in France, they are an unmissable part of the cultural experience. Supermarkets are cheaper, but unless you see a sign displaying ‘Artisan Boulanger’, you will be buying bread baked with premade dough shipped from a central warehouse.
Despite the challenges from supermarkets, other types of traditional food retailers are still commonplace, even in small towns and villages. It is not unusual to find a family-run boucherie (butchers) and charcutier (prepared meats/cold cuts). Often, they will be a traiteur (catering service) that sells individually prepared meals (France’s answer to TV dinners).
Shopping malls
Giant covered shopping malls are rare outside the big cities of France. Small shopping malls – often next to hypermarkets – are more common.
A lot of everyday shopping in France happens in sprawling outdoor shopping areas on the outskirts of towns.
With most big brand stores located in out-of-town areas, shopping in the heart of towns is often relaxed and crowd-free. It is typically where independent specialists or smaller chain stores are found. Not to mention a more relaxed vibe.
Polite phrases to use in French shops
Contrary to some notorious tales of snooty service, especially in Paris, shopping in France is usually a pleasant experience. Sale assistants may be less hurried than you encounter in some countries, but they are generally helpful and often friendly. Except in Paris perhaps, which follows its own rules.
Politeness is ingrained into French culture. This can be seen when shopping in France.
From department stores to family-run enterprises, you will nearly always be greeted with a customary “bonjour”, followed by an “au revoir” as you leave the store. Respond in kind, and chuck in a “bonne journée” (have a good day) for bonus points.
In small shops, don’t be surprised if other customers greet you and each other, even if they’ve never met before.
Although generally hands-off, shop assistants will usually ask if they can help you. A quick “Non merci, je ne fais que regarder” (No thanks, I’m only looking) will ensure you are left to browse.
Should you need assistance, catch the attention of an assistant with an all-essential phrase for shopping in France, “excuse-moi, s’il-vous plait” (excuse me, please).
Useful info for shopping trips in France
A few things can catch visitors unaware when shopping in France. For example, you have to pay a nominal fee (around 10-25 cents) for a bag to carry purchases.
For a higher charge (typically around €1-2), you can often pick up a sturdy, reusable bag. Local shoppers bring their own bags. If you find yourself looking for a cheap and unusual souvenir, look out for reusable bags decorated with local tourist imagery, which can make spending that euro worthwhile.
Although consumer goods prices in France compare favourably with other Western European countries, they can still surprise visitors. There are a few ways to save euros when shopping in France.
Annual sales (soldes) occur every January (the biggest) and June. At other times of the year, it is common to see everyday promotions and occasional clear out sales, especially on Black Friday, a recent — and not universally welcomed — import. Stores can be aggressive with price reductions, so bargains disappear quickly.
Outside of sale periods, outlet factory malls are the place to find branded clothes at discount prices, particularly end-of-line items. Outlet malls are mostly found outside bigger towns and predominantly in Northern France and around Paris, as you can see on this map of French outlet malls.
One product you will rarely see discounted are books. They are price-protected in France, to insulate independent book stores from big online retailers.
Finally, goods purchased in France are covered by consumer protection laws that adhere to EU legislation. Some retailers may improve on the minimum protection but, regardless of store policy, faulty goods must be repaired or replaced if they break within two years.
Items purchased online have a 14 day no quibble returns protection. Many retailers will also accept unopened and unused goods back within 7 days if you change your mind, although this is at their discretion.
That wraps up our quick guide to shopping in France. Whether you’re looking forward to a blowout shopping spree or just need to know the essentials, I hope you have learned enough to avoid any big surprises. Bon shopping!
